Truth be re-iterated, the train ride from Kandy to Ella is not all roses and rainbows. The pictures floating around on social media platforms like Pinterest and Instagram further help cloud a traveller’s perception about how beautiful the journey will be. On our trip from Nanu-Oya to Ella, we got lucky with the tickets, but we travelled on the weekend, which meant riding a severely crowded train. We were away in two different carriages because what felt like an opportunity to take a Pinterest-perfect picture turned into a nightmare when a drunken passenger puked in the passage, making it impossible to cross over to the other carriage.
And so, we bring to you a few tips that can make your journey more blissful:
1. Avoid travelling in the Kandy to Ella train on weekends and holidays.
The train ride is one of the instances where you will really come close to the locals, literally speaking as well. It is a commonly used way of commuting by travellers and locals alike, making the carriages packed with passengers. Be prepared to scoot over, confine yourself to a single spot, and make physical, sweaty contact with passing strangers.
Therefore, it is best to avoid travelling on weekends and holidays, when the number of passengers booms dramatically.
2. Be prepared to make friends.
You might have come across many pictures of travellers bobbing their heads out of the window and letting the wind in their hair or passengers dangling their legs out of doors on the train. Well, reality check, it is pretty challenging to get a window seat or a space to even stand by the door. The number of doors on the train is limited, and everyone has their eyes on them.
The only way to overcome this is to push your way to the door and try to befriend the passengers who’ve already occupied the doorway. We befriended a Russian couple who were sweet enough to make way for us to get our pictures clicked.
As for the seats, the trick remains the same, befriend fellow passengers, ask about their plans to off-board the train or request their seat for a few quick minutes.
3. All the trains are not of vibrant blue or red colour.
When we were researching and planning the train journey, all the pictures had a serpentine blue train looking absolutely dreamy against the bright green backdrop of tea plantations. However, we realised that those were actually vintage trains and not the express train upon arrival.
So, if you want to catch a vintage blue or red train, it is worth asking around for the timetable at the station. The vintage trains are usually scheduled for early morning departures.
4. Pick the best side of the train to enjoy the views
The right side of the train from Kandy to Nanu-Oya serves the most splendid views of tea gardens, bridges, and winding hills. However, if you’re boarding the train from Nanu-Oya to Ella, prefer the left side of the train. Hereafter, the tea gardens are replaced by misty forests that suddenly open to panoramic valley views that are worth looking out for.
5. Never board the train without snacks and water.
Even if you board the express train, it will take a minimum of 7-8 hours to travel from Kandy to Ella. You do not wish to starve or hunt for snacks during this journey. Although the last carriage had a cute, little pantry serving potato fritters, fresh fruits, tea and coffee, it is best to carry water and energy bars of your choice in a pandemic travel time.
Funny thing, we asked a vendor to give us a cup of coffee when he came around, he told us the price for 2, and upon requesting a single cup, he left. Therefore, always have food and beverages on you.
6. Expect delays for the least disappointment.
No matter the time you travel, the train is most likely to run late by at least 30-40 minutes. But on the off-chance (highly unlikely), the train might arrive on time. Therefore, it is best to reach the station 15-20 minutes before the scheduled departure time.
Despite travelling on an express train, we waited for 40 minutes at the station. However, we enjoyed exploring the station of Nanu-Oya and shooting a lot of pictures during our time there, which is something you can do to pass the time.
7. Make the most of the journey
On the contrary, the 7–8-hour long train will not seem that long. Even if you break your journey to Nuwara Eliya, the time will fly by quickly. The first leg of your trip will be spent hunting spots to stand, seats to sit, or doorways to squeeze your way through. However, the scenery will keep you company, and it will surprise you and charm you at every turn or after every tunnel.
The 7-hour long journey seemed daunting at the outset, which is why we decided to travel early morning from Kandy to Nanu-Oya while exploring Nuwara Eliya and then continue our journey to Ella in train. Many tourists also prefer staying overnight at Nuwara Eliya to visit tea plantations and a few waterfalls and then continue to Ella.
8. Carry as little luggage as possible.
The only way we could enjoy our train ride so much was because of the liberty of only carrying minimal hand baggage.
The train carriages are already packed with passengers, and many locals use them to transport their goods as well. Add this with the backpackers and travellers carrying their luggage. The train ride is no place for trolleys or heavy luggage. Despite the existing cabin space overhead, it is not enough to fit a lot of bags.
If you’re travelling with a driver, like we did, make them transport your luggage to Ella while you enjoy the journey hands-free.
9. Deboard the train at Demodara.
Deboarding at Demodara was easily the best last-minute decision we made while on our journey to Ella. Many passengers will alight as soon as the train reaches Ella, freeing up a lot of space for the best part about the trip – passing through the famous Nine Arch Bridge.
Riding on the Nine Arch Bridge is a unique and exhilarating experience that will leave you satisfied with the train ride like nothing else. The first glimpse of light from the tunnel after Ella comes bearing the hooting and cheering voices of innumerable tourists waiting for your train to cross the bridge on the other end. As you pop your head out of the window, the cheering tourists start waving crazily, making it an experience worth enjoying.
10. Don’t miss the Demodara Loop.
The Demodara Loop is a unique architectural marvel and it is considered “the only loop in the world which has a railway station situated exactly over a tunnel at spiral loop.”
If you alight at Demodara station, run towards the exit of the station, where a lot of people will already be waiting for the train to pass right below them.
11. Be cautious at all times.
Truth be told, even if you’re not cautious, the railway staff will make sure to give you a piece of their mind and warnings.
The world of social media had us expecting the possibility of clicking impossible pictures while on a moving train. But as soon as we tried, we realised just how scary and dangerous it could get. There are branches, poles, and tunnels on the line that can injure you significantly if you’re not too careful.
So do have some fun, bob your head through the window, or sway your legs out of the doorway but be cautious.
The train ride from Nanu-Oya to Ella was one of the most epic experiences in Sri Lanka and we would revisit it in a heartbeat. Our experience re-affirmed our decision to take the train for a leisurely ride as our helpful driver transported the rest of out heavy luggage to Ella. But even if you cannot avail such an option, the Kandy to Ella train is worth all the hassle. The key takeaway would be to set your expectations right. The train journey demands its passengers to shun their introvert boundaries and truly mingle with the people around to make the most out of the trip.